Collisions: What to do when.....

Let me state at the outset, I have a back round in law enforcement. This has been mentioned previously. So if there is a perceived law enforcement slant, it isn’t intentional.

I just want anyone and everyone who rides or reads this to come back home alive and well after their ride.

Let's be clear on the words we use here, as the words are going to be critical in this blog entry as we continue on.

An accident is just that, an accident. You are hit by a falling meteor, that is an accident.

When two or more objects come together, that isn't an accident, that is a collision.  When a motorized vehicle and a cyclist make contact, that isn't an accident, that is a collision or incident.

• Ø  Was there a reason for the contact?
• Ø  Could it have been avoided by the parties involved?
• Ø  What’s the reason the collision occurred?
• Ø  Which party involved was at fault?
• Ø  Was there another mitigating factor involved?

In every collision there was a reason why it happened, therefore it was no accident, short of riding on a country road and you get nicked by that meteor we spoke of previously.

I refer back to the Four Core Principals of CAN-BIKE

            Manoeuvrability, Visibility, Predictability, and Communication

                                   Or

                    See,   Be Seen,  Be Heard,   Be Predicable 

Defensive driving, like defensive cycling is trying to predict what the other guy on the road is going to do, by their actions or inaction's, before they do it. Being able to act or react are the keys to arriving back home in one piece. Cycling isn't a place where you can jump on your bike, put your brain in neutral and go. Cycling is a thinking exercise, I would almost equate it to chess. If you watch the pro racers they have coaches who build strategies for a reason. The first person to the other end of the ride, still in the saddle wins it’s just that simple.

Starting from your residence, having a great ride and ending up where you planned, that is a win.

Planning is a safety thing, so when that collision does happen, then you need to know what to do.

A special thanks to Mr. Hay, a lawyer in Vancouver, who is also a cyclist, or should that read a cyclist who is a lawyer to support his riding habit. Either way he has published a list of Do's and Don'ts when it comes to what you do and do not do when involved in a collision.  He has allowed me to re-publish that list here.

Please take a look at the list, and remember as many as you can when the time comes.

Statistics say “A cyclist is involved in a minor event about once every three years and a major event once every ten years".

When I found that stat, I looked back over my riding years and figured I have better than the odd smackers said I would, but I also didn't kid myself, I know my time is coming at some point.

I want to add a little levity at this point because this is a sombre subject...

Someday my ship will come in... And with my luck I'll be at the airport !!

We can't control fate or our destiny, but we can make some preparation so and knowing what to do and what not to do makes good sense. 

Cycling safety isn't just knowing the rules of the road, and how to negotiate tight confines with confidence, skill and grace.  Safety is also thinking ahead a couple of moves on the chess board of traffic you are in, about to go into or through.

In my classes I joke about cycling being full contact, full combat, and the courses not being your mothers cycling course.  I, as an Instructor teach and expect the rider to think ahead.

I recall another saying about pilots, I believe it is; A superior pilot uses his superior ability and experience so he doesn't have to use his superior flying skills.

Cycling should be viewed in the same basic way. Using your ability and experience to see what is happening around you so you can act and be ready, therefore you don't have to use your superior skills learned and honed.

Avoidance is the best policy, wearing bight coloured reflective clothing, having lights front and back, and riding where you are reasonably expected to ride will assist you in avoiding a collision, but when 'that' time comes please remember what Mr. Hay has said, and deal with the situation accordingly.

       Your safety is first and foremost !!!

       Bikes are just stuff, and we can replace stuff. We can't replace the cyclist.

All the parts attached you started with you want to end with. That certainly sounds melodramatic, but it is hard to argue with.

Bottom line, avoid collisions should go without saying, but if and/or when it happens be prepared. Here is a case when knowledge is power. Have the proper mind-set, WIN, there is no prize for second place in this one. Be a fighter, you could be injured, and seriously injured. Like I said, WIN and you will likely be around to ride another day.

Hopefully you will never have to use the points made. 

Please remember the points from Mr. Hay, and look out for yourself.

Winning and thinking are the only options to ride again another day.

DAVID HAY'S TOP TEN LIST OF DO'S AND DON'TS FOLLOWING A TRAFFIC ACCIDENT

The things people do and say following a traffic accident are often given significant weight by a judge or jury during the trial process. Underlying the theory of evidence is the notion that the further one is from the event in issue, the more inherently unreliable is the recollection of that event, given the impact of anger and denial around the trauma itself, the tendency to reconstruct, and factors related to litigation around the event. However, witnesses I have come across over the course of ten years of practising law have seldom possessed the presence of mind following a serious trauma to take steps to protect their legal position related to that trauma. Let's face it, the furthest thing from anyone's mind following an accident on a bicycle is the possible impact of what they say or do on a lawsuit over the accident. With that caveat in mind, here is my top ten list of do's and don'ts following an accident. This list is based on some of the difficulties I have seen people get in which might have been avoided if they simply had been a wee bit more mindful of the future implications of their conduct.

I preface this list by saying that if you have been involved as a cyclist in a serious traffic accident (and in my experience most accidents between cars and bicycles are relatively serious) there is very little if any anything you can do to improve your legal position and almost invariably, anything you say or do in an effort to explain what happened will be used against you. So don't try.

                The Do's

1.     Try to observe where you are immediately following an accident - make a mental note of where you are in relation to your bike, the car which struck you, and a reference point such as the painted lines of cross walk, a light standard, fire hydrant, corner, bus stop, etc.

2.     Try to obtain as much information as you can relating to the identity of the driver, licence plate of the vehicle, and any witnesses to the accident - this is particularly important if the accident is a hit and run and the police do not attend. Get legal advice immediately as there is a positive obligation on you to attempt to ascertain the identity of the driver and owner of the vehicle.

3.     If the ambulance attendants ask you to go to the hospital, go - you score no points for being stoic and from a medical point of view it is usually a good idea to take the time to get examined.

4.     Control your temper and avoid belligerence or antagonistic behaviour - you may be understandably upset but restraint in these circumstances is of immense value - conversely, displays of anger only predispose witnesses, adjusters, and the ultimate triers of fact to not see things your way.

5.     Talk to a lawyer prior to talking to ICBC - you are required at law to provide information to ICBC but you are not required to provide information directly to ICBC and there is seldom an upside.

                The Don'ts

6.     Do not apologize - we have a tendency to apologize to the person who stepped on our foot. Unfortunately, an apology is often interpreted later as an admission against interest even when, at the time it was made, it may have had nothing to do with who was at fault for the accident.

7.     Do not discuss with the driver of the car or the witnesses what happened unless the driver is explaining to you how he/she was at fault for the accident - in that event, listen carefully and do not offer a statement such as 'It's ok, I think I am fine.' Accident victims are often in a state of shock as a result of which they cannot experience the full extent of their injuries until sometime later.

8.     Do not agree to settle the dispute privately. It may be that you can do this but wait until you have had a chance to fully consider what happened and the consequences.

9.     Do not give or sign long winded or complicated statements surrounding the circumstances of the accident - you will likely be approached both by the police and ICBC - if it is not practical or reasonable to contact a lawyer prior to giving a statement, then keep it very short and concise to allow for further reflection: remember, your statement can seldom help you.

10. Do not pay a traffic ticket related to the accident simply because you have no time to file a dispute. The payment of a ticket, though not conclusive of your legal dispute with the driver, certainly indicates a guilty mind or a lack of confidence in one's position and tends to impact on a case in negligence against the wrongful driver.

David Hay is a litigation lawyer and partner at Richards Buell Sutton LLP. RBS is a full-service law firm in Vancouver delivering legal advice and solutions in all areas of practice. The information above is not legal advice. Anyone seeking legal advice should contact David directly.

  

I believe that if you wear your helmet, wear bright reflective clothing, and use your bike lights anytime you are on your bike, you should lower you chances of being involved in an traffic incident.

This does bring up the question of proper and effective cycling infrastructure.  Excellent points, points that I will address in the coming months.

Please ride defensively and using your riding skills and ability to keep you out of having to refer to Mr. Hay’s tips, but if you end up in an incident, make sure you remember what Mr Hay’s has put forth.

Thanks for stopping by

      Safe Ride Home,

Chuck

** The Do’s and Don’ts list republished with permission of David Hay.

 First published by the British Columbia Cycling Coalition newsletter, July 2003.

Possible Christmas ideas for Cyclists

Christmas is just about here, and the Christmas shopping season has started in Ernest, after all it’s the last week of November.

In our house ideas for stocking stuffers and Christmas gifts are being sought with great fervor.  Put on the spot, these questions are hard to answer, but when moving about and at strange times, you think about items that you could use or would like to get. 

 I have tried to put together a possible list of fun and useful items,  things that we as cyclists would like, but make others think we’re a little off our gourds.

THE LIST

  What I feel is the most important gift I can get from my family and friends is the gift of time. 

Why not go for a ride with your cyclist, or help them work on their bike(s). Ask them about their bike, or, if biking is not an option for you, go for an easy workout, a swim or a skate.

 My daughter gave me a gift of going skating, then a burger and a beer.  That couple of hours was worth far more than any monetary gift. 

Here is my list of suggestions, in no particular order and by no means definitive:

Ø  LIGHTS, Lights can be purchased for a very reasonable price. They affix to your bike your helmet, your bag, your back pack. They can be either AAA battery, or USB rechargeable.  Both front white and rear red.

Ø  Hi-Viz clothing (vests). Yes they are an ugly fashion statement, but they will save your life. They can be purchased at bike shops, or anywhere construction supplies are sold. As long as they are bright; I like orange since they don’t clash with those workers on the streets or emergency personnel.

Ø  Reflective tri-angle that you can affix to your back-pack.

Ø  Bike helmets, I believe in bike helmet usage, so I think they are a great gift.  Costs of helmets span the financial spectrum. Please make sure they haven’t timed out.(check the mfg. date and add 5 years, if your helmet is inside those numbers then great, if outside, then seriously think about replacing it, it has timed out.)

Ø  Multi Tool which includes a chain breaker/repair tool. Crank Bros, for example has a good one, their “17 tool” model. Park tools also make excellent bike tools.  Others companies have the same thing, I just mention two companies I am familiar with.

Ø  Chain cleaning tool/ chain cleaner.  This should have a bottle of cleaner with it. Biodegradable is a great idea, and planet friendly.

Ø  Cleaning brushes. There are different ones, for different uses and places on your bike.  Good idea to have a few since once they get dirty they are all but impossible to clean.

Ø  Bike mounted mini-pump. I got mine from my local bike shop.  Make sure it can work on your type of tire valves !!!

Ø  Y-Tool, male ends, 4.5/5/6 mm.  I carry one of these with me anytime I am on my bike, and especially when I teach.  This tool will adjust about 85% of the bolts on your bike.

Ø  Y-tool, female ends, 8/9/10 mm.  I have a couple in tool box, but it isn’t as well used.

Ø  Y-tool, male ends, 2/2.5/3 mm. Again I have a couple of these, but not used as much

** NOTE **   I mean no disrespect, expressed or implied when I mention, male or female ends.  I just want to explain the type of ends.  This is how I learned it through tool places. Sorry if I have offended anyone.

Ø  Pump straps, a great idea to hold your pump onto your bike.  I have very low faith in the plastic clips that hold your pump into the plastic holder.  These are a great idea to have one around your pump when you ride.

Ø  Tire Levers.  I have about two dozen of them in my tool box, teaching materials and on my bike. I carry three on my bike and as I said I have lots more nearby.

Ø  Basic bike tool bag for attaching to your bike.  Bags don’t need to be big, but they need to be able to carry the few items you really should carry with you. This isn’t a suitcase, think less is more.

Ø  Stubby crescent wrench, sometimes the bolt you need to tighten/adjust just isn’t part of your multi-tool.

Ø  Basic eye cover, protect your eyes, you only have two of them, and you just can’t see bugs coming, or keep the rain and road grime out with your hands. Basic safety glasses will work fine, or you can use fancier name brand ones.

Ø  Neck warmers, they may look goofy but they work.

Ø  Skull cap, it’s thin, it goes under your helmet, and it covers your ears.  We lose a majority of our heat through the head, so this will slow that cooling process, and make the ride more enjoyable.

Ø  Cycling shoe Booties, they fit over your cycling shoes and keep your feet from getting soaked. Your feet will likely get moist, but not soaked.  These also look goofy, but they work.

Ø  Full finger gloves that fit properly. I would suggest gloves with material that will not allow the gloves to slide about on your handle bars.  Again, glove costs cover the gambit, so look around.

Ø  Full finger gloves for wet, that fit properly. Mountain Equipment Co-op is a multi-sport place, similar to MEI in the United States. They sell gloves for canoeing that are for use when wet.  Well, we ride in the wet, and these work great.  I have a couple of pairs, the thin about 2mm ones is what I have.

     Information Tid Bit One – If you are looking at mitts over gloves, then make sure you get the type that has the thumb and at least one finger available.  If you can’t grab and operate brakes, then they aren’t safe. SAFETY FIRST, SAFETY LAST, SAFETY ALWAYS!!

Ø  Boot Dryer, in my opinion, wet, cold, soggy cycling shoes and wet socks are the last thing I want to put back on. Cycling shops don’t normally sell boot dryers, but work clothing places such as Mark’s Work World, or similar type places usually do. From soaked through and through to dry – overnight.  And that is a very good thing. You can also put your gloves on once your shoes are done.  If there is an outdoor worker in your house, they can put their work boots on. IT WORKS.  I bought one for my cycling shoes.  My son the plumber found it and I lost it to him.

Ø  Book by Deny’s Beames – Taking the Road, Safe and Effective use of the Bicycle for Fun and Transportation. 216 pages of really excellent information on cycling and safety cycling and defensive cycling, $ 24.95. Beames is a CAN-BIKE National Examiner and incredible knowledgeable in this field.  I feel a “Must Have: for any cycling library.

Ø  A basic glass case that way when you drop your glasses into your bag / back pack you won’t break or bend them. I suggest a hard sided case, since a whole lot of other stuff will also be stuffed into your bag.

Ø  Water Bottles/ water bottle holders, just like it sounds, you can get these at your local bike shop with their logo on them. If there is room on the bike frame for more than one, then fill all the spots.  Your rider will thank you on a longer ride or a hot day.

Ø  Hydration packs, great idea, and you can carry any extra things you feel you need to carry. It is for water and not much more.

Ø  Locks, cable/lock combination, only leave out and unlocked what you can afford to lose. Locks come in many sizes, shapes and price points. A small amount for a lock, or a large amount to replace a bike. Small diameter steel cables can be custom made at most hard ware stores for your bike, your vehicle bike carrier/rack.  Locks are cheap insurance. Make sure it is long enough to capture both wheels and frame.

Ø  Bag of rags, can get these anywhere, such as Costco or Rona, or any similar type place.

I have mentioned a couple of product names, I am not trying to push any particular company.  I mention these names to direct you to what you are looking at. It gives the ability to ask for what you want, rather than getting what you don’t want, and finding out after the fact.

Do your homework and have an idea of what you want prior to buying.  My other suggestion is deal with a place that deals with bikes and bike supplies. They can assist you to get what you want, and give you options and price ranges.

If your cyclist deals with a particular bike shop, and I suspect they do, then go there.  They will know your cyclist and can assist you with your purchases. A good chance they already know what is on their bike.

Most expensive isn’t always best.  Functional is what you are after.  Sometimes you have to think outside the box to get what you are wanting

I am very sure there are other bike items that could be added to this list.  If you have other items, please let me know and we can make a list for everyone that might be struggling with small items for the cyclist(s) in their lives.

A good ride, either on the roads or attached to an air trainer will help with the extra dessert or chocolates you consumed, or snuck when you thought nobody was looking.

From Kim and myself may your Holiday Season be wonderful, and the positive memories they bring last a lifetime.

Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, Happy Hanuka

Thanks for stopping by

      Safe Ride Home

  Chuck

Let There Be Light

One of the basic corner stones of bicycle safety is the ability to be seen.

  So naturally it should be part of the 4 core CAN-BIKE concepts, that being VISIBILITY.

At this point let me remind you of the other three

     Manoeuvrability, Predictability, and Communication.

OR   See, Be Seen, Be Heard, Be Predictable

  One of the first things most people do when they enter their residence is turn on a light - so we can see. We get into our vehicles and the day time running lights automatically come on, so others can see us while the vehicle is moving.

Cycling should be no different. Lighting, proper lighting, effective lighting, should be one of your first considerations when going for a ride.

In British Columbia lights are required for cyclists operating 1/2 hour before sunset and 1/2 hour after sunrise.

About 2% of traffic fatalities are bicyclists. Some of the characteristics of these fatalities are as follows:

                94% of bicyclists killed in traffic crashes were 16 years of age or older; 

                34% of fatally injured bicyclists were struck by a vehicle in darkness; 

                19% of bicyclists killed in traffic crashes were struck by a heavy truck.

Given that a third of fatalities occur at night, enforcement campaigns should also detect bicyclists riding at night without a light on.

**1

 Information tid bit One - if you check the BC Motor Vehicle Act it actually reads - 1/2 hour after sunset and 1/2 hour before sunrise.

 I suspect this is a typo that no one has caught previously.

I am a firm believer that if a cyclist is out and moving, then they should be lit up as much as possible.

Last week I was in downtown Vancouver after dark and the majority of the cyclist moving in the separated bike lanes had lights, and had them on.

Contrast that with today just after sunset along the Haney bypass a lone female cyclist is riding along the side of the road, with traffic, but with no lights at all.  She had stopped at an intersection, and was waiting to cross.  You couldn’t see her in the semi dark, until the last second.  I noticed in my mirror that she found a hole in traffic and rode across, and continued riding.

When you consider most cycling incidents occur at intersections, in the later afternoon, and when the cyclist has no lights…..  She is a recipe for disaster, or much worse.

Bike lights used to be a generator based unit that attached to the front fork and the generator unit sat against the front wheel and gave some light as long as the bike was moving.  When you stopped moving then the light went out. We then went to a battery type system.  That battery was the size of the water bottle and heavy. The battery’s weight was almost the weight of today’s bikes, and took hours to recharge for a short duration of light. Better, but not great, at least you had lights when you stopped moving. The light seemed to last for the first half of the trip then ran out of charge for the ride home, and took all the next day to recharge.

Technology has brought smaller, brighter, lighter, and more powerful lights and lighting systems.

Information Tidbit Two:

                  Lumen's is the term used to measure the candle power of some lights.

                  The higher the lumen's number the more powerful the light and the more light is                                                               generated.

 Bike lights come in all varieties of size, lumen's and attachment points. So a light that has a rating at 200 lumen's is a bright light.  The light I have mounted on my helmet is 250 lumen's. It lights my way allowing me to see what is ahead, illuminates the road in front of me, and allows others around me to see me and react accordingly.  Moreover other road users can see it from a distance.

I have the white light on the front of my helmet, along with a white light attached to the front handle bars on my bike, and a red light to the rear of my bike and on my helmet.

BC requires cyclists to have a red light to the rear that can be seen at a distance of 150 meters.  

Lumen's is one measurement, know lets add another – wattage.  A number of the current rear lights are measured in wattage.  I have a one watt rear light, AAA battery powered. The red rear light on my helmet is the rechargeable type.

The newest light I just purchased has two .5 watt lights to it, still one watt, just distributed a little differently.  My current one watt cherry bomb rear light shows up in downtown Vancouver, through the light pollution that comes with a busy downtown core. That is quite something when you consider the lights along Dunsmuir Street.  I have been able to follow the same light as mine on a bike up to three blocks away.  That same light was see able at a kilometre on the highway out here in Maple Ridge at night.

When you combine good, visible lights, affixed properly to your bike, you or both, then you are being a much safer and polite rider. When you add a high visibility safety vest, you are see-able from a longer distance and in more than one direction. 360 degree visibility is an achievable goal !!

Day time and especially at night, using your lights when you ride should be a natural part of your safety preparation.

In comparison to the possible consequences lights don't cost much, and have a safety return of many fold.

Lights for your bike, front and rear don’t cost much.  Triple A batteries can be a recurring cost if that type of light is used, but I have only had to change the batteries in my rear light once in two years, so the return in investment is pretty good. Even once a year, the cost per mile ridden, is  very very low. 

Most of the newer lights have a USB slot and come with the cord, so plugging in your light(s) into your lap top or any device with a USB port will keep your lights charged. This brings the cost down to a very reasonable level.

I feel affordability is a given, trying to say you can’t afford the light… you simply can’t afford not to. About $ 10.00 each, one front and one back.

You’ll likely spend more than that in 24 hours for coffee from your favourite coffee barista.

Please use your lights any time you ride.

                          Riders that ride using the motto:

                                   SEE, BE SEEN, BE HEARD, and BE PREDICTABLE

have a much higher likelihood to survive to ride another day. 

Safety is also about letting others know you are there so both sides can make the proper decisions with the correct information.

Using lights is a cornerstone to safe riding.

Thanks for Stopping By,

       Safe Ride Home

Chuck

**1 – Information obtained from the BCAA website in an article on traffic safety, 2013.

Bike shorts to Balaclavas

 

 

Welcome to November. In most parts of North America fall is well under way.

I guess it depends on your location as to how serious Mother Nature rolls out fall.
Here on the West coast, fall is when the leaves turn colour and drop onto the road/riding surface... And the rains rollin’ off the Pacific Ocean. For that matter that also describes most of the West coast winter, other than the few days in mid-January when we get about five centimetres of wet snow that brings the area to a grinding halt.

The rest of CANADA, that is, from Hope BC East and North gets snow and more snow and cold and wind. Did I mention snow?

Hypothermia becomes a very real concern, along with frost bite to extremities, or anything exposed to the elements.

Cycling is going out and having a great ride, being comfortable in the elements, and doing it safely. Be it clear and cool, or clear and cold.

I realize that temperature is just a number, but it’s a number that has a very direct bearing on what we do, where we do it, how long we do it. What we do while we are there, and if we even go out for what we had planned.

Layering has been the by words for winter activities since we all were little and we were bundled in snow suits to go outside. Mom wasn’t wrong, even though we felt we knew better.

Cold and wind can be the unseen enemy, which if you aren’t prepared and able to see the signs, can cause more problems.

Winter cycling can be great but without taking the outside environment and conditions, at the beginning, during and afterward into account, you could be putting your life in danger.

Please beware when riding during the colder months. Taking that extra time to make sure you are prepared will assist in somewhat controlling the conditions and make the difference between a cold miserable ride and a comfortable great ride.
It can be as simple as mind over matter, if you don’t mind the conditions and can handle them, then it doesn’t really matter.

I have attached excellent information from the Environment CANADA web site.

They have detailed the how’s and whys and why not’s far better than I could.
They are experts in the field of cold. Please take a look at their web site for more information.

I am of the opinion that functional and warm is better than looking good.  Safety comes in many aspects, knowing what to wear, how to layer, in what order, and being seen are what is going to allow you to make it through and survive.

 

From the Environment CANADA web site,   www.weatheroffice.gc.ca

 

What is Wind Chill?

Anyone who has ever waited at a bus stop, ridden a bike in the winter or taken a walk on a blustery winter day knows that you feel colder when the wind blows. This cooling sensation that is caused by the combined effect of temperature and wind, is what is known as wind chill.

On a calm day, our bodies insulate us somewhat from the outside temperature by warming up a thin layer of air close to our skin, known as the boundary layer. When the wind blows, it takes this protective layer away, exposing our skin to the outside air. It takes energy for our bodies to warm up a new layer and, if each layer keeps getting blown away, our skin temperature will drop and we will feel colder.

Wind also makes you feel colder by evaporating any moisture on your skin, a process that draws more heat away from the body. Studies show that when skin is wet, it loses heat much faster than when it is dry

How does Wind Chill affect you?

Living in a cold country can be hazardous to your health. Each year in Canada, more than 80 people die from over-exposure to the cold, and many more suffer injuries resulting from hypothermia and frostbite. Wind chill can play a major role in such health hazards because it speeds up the rate at which your body loses heat.

How much heat you lose depends not only on the cooling effects of the cold and the wind chill, but on other factors. Good quality clothing with high insulating properties traps air, creating a thicker boundary layer around the body which keeps in the heat. Wet clothing and footwear lose their insulating properties, resulting in body-heat loss nearly equal to that of exposed skin. Your body type also determines how quickly you lose heat; people with a tall, slim build become cold much faster than those that are shorter and heavier.

We can also gain heat by increasing our metabolism or soaking up the sun. Physical activity, such as walking or skiing, increases our metabolism – which generates more body heat. Age and physical condition also play a part. Elderly people and children have less muscle mass and as a result, generate less body heat. Sunshine, even on a cold winter day, can also make a difference. Bright sunshine can make you feel as much as 10 degrees warmer.

Over time, our bodies can also adapt to the cold. People who live in a cold climate are often able to withstand cold better than those from warmer climates.

 

Beating the chill

The best way to avoid the hazards of wind chill is to check the weather forecast before going outside, and to be prepared by dressing warmly. As a guideline, keep in mind that the risk of frostbite increases rapidly when wind chill values go below -27.

 

A simple way to avoid wind chill is to get out of the wind. Environment Canada's wind chill forecasts are based on the wind you would experience on open ground; taking shelter from the wind can therefore reduce or even eliminate the wind chill factor.

A recent survey indicated that 82 per cent of Canadians use wind chill information to decide how to dress before going outside in the winter. Many groups and organizations also use the wind chill index to regulate their outdoor activities.

Schools use wind chill information to decide whether it is safe for children to go outdoors at recess; hockey clubs cancel outdoor practices when the wind chill is too cold; people who work outside for a living, such as construction workers and ski-lift operators, are required to take indoor breaks to warm up when the wind chill is very cold.

Seven steps to cold weather safety

1. Listen to the weather forecast
2. Plan ahead
3. Dress warmly
4. Seek shelter
5. Stay dry
6. Keep active
7. Be aware

1.) Listen to the weather forecast

• Check the Environment Canada weather forecast before going out in the winter.
• Listen for a wind chill warning. Wind chill warnings, based on local climate, are issued when significant wind chills are expected to occur.

Environment Canada’s weather forecasts are available through radio and TV broadcasts, Environment Canada’s Weatheradio network, and online at www.weatheroffice.gc.ca.

2.) Plan ahead

• Develop a cold weather safety plan in advance to ensure that safety concerns are addressed when it’s very cold, or when the wind chill is significant. For example, schools could hold recess indoors, outside workers could schedule warm-up breaks, and those involved in winter recreation could reduce the amount of time they spend outdoors.

3.) Dress warmly

• Dress in layers, with a wind resistant outer layer.
• When it is cold, wear a hat (a large portion of body heat is lost from the head), mittens or insulated gloves. You should also have something to keep your face warm, such as a scarf, neck tube or facemask.
• Wear warm and waterproof footwear. When it is very cold, or when the wind chill is significant, cover as much exposed skin as possible. Your body’s extremities, such as the ears, nose, fingers and toes lose heat the fastest.

4.) Seek shelter

• When the wind chill is significant, get out of the wind and limit the time you spend outside.

5.) Stay dry

• Wet clothing chills the body rapidly.
• Remove outer layers of clothing or open your coat if you are sweating.

6.) Keep active

• Walking or running will help warm you by generating body heat.

7.) Be aware

• Watch for signs of frostnip, frostbite and hypothermia.
• Some people are more susceptible to the cold, particularly children, the elderly and those with circulation problems.
• The use of alcohol, tobacco and certain medications will increase your susceptibility to cold.

Cold injuries

Exposure to the cold can be hazardous or even life-threatening. Your body's extremities, such as the ears, nose, fingers and toes, lose heat the fastest. Exposed skin may freeze, causing frostnip or frostbite. In extreme conditions or after prolonged exposure to the cold, the body core can also lose heat, resulting in hypothermia.

Hypothermia

• Being cold over a prolonged period of time can cause a drop in body temperature (below the normal 37^°C).
• Shivering, confusion and loss of muscular control (e.g., difficulty walking) can occur.
• It can progress to a life-threatening condition where shivering stops or the person loses consciousness. Cardiac arrest may occur.

What to do:

·  Get medical attention immediately.

·  Lay the person down and avoid rough handling, particularly if the person is unconscious.

·  Get the person indoors.

·  Gently remove wet clothing.

·  Warm the person gradually and slowly, using available sources of heat.

Frostnip

• A mild form of frostbite, where only the skin freezes.
• Skin appears yellowish or white, but feels soft to the touch.
• Painful tingling or burning sensation.

What to do:

·  Do not rub or massage the area.

·  Warm the area gradually – use body heat (a warm hand) or warm water. Avoid direct heat which can burn the skin.

·  Once the affected area is warm, do not re-expose it to the cold.

Frostbite

• A more severe condition, where both the skin and the underlying tissue (fat, muscle, bone) are frozen.
• Skin appears white and waxy and is hard to the touch.
• No sensation – the area is numb.

What to do:

·  Frostbite can be serious, and can result in amputation. Get medical help!

·  Do not rub or massage the area.

·  Do not warm the area until you can ensure it will stay warm.

·  Warm the area gradually; use body heat, or warm water (40^°C to 42^°C). Avoid direct heat which can burn the skin.

Try this neat experiment to better understand wind chill

Turn on a fan and stand in front of it. You will feel colder because of the wind cooling your skin, but the temperature in the room has not changed. You cannot make the room any colder, no matter how high you turn up the fan. Just like outside, no matter how strong the wind blows, the temperature of the air outside does not change.

Now dab some water on your skin and stand in front of the fan again. The wet skin should feel much colder. This demonstrates how important it is to stay dry when outdoors in cold and windy conditions.

Where is the coldest wind chill in Canada?

Wind chills below -70 have been recorded in northern communities in Canada. On January 13, 1975 at Kugaaruk, Nunavut, the air temperature was -51^°C and the winds were 56 km/h, producing a bone-chilling wind chill of -78! 

Special thanks to the folks at Environment CANADA for the above information.

Thanks for Stopping By

           Safe Ride Home

 Chuck